Official Luthiers Forum!

Slightly off-topic, but I figure what the heck, right?

I'm going to start my 'build a Strat and a Tele in a Week' project soon, and I'm having some doubts about how best to join the big, long board of skew/flatsawn swamp ash I've got. Gonna need to make 2 2-piece bodies, join down the middle. Figured I ask you guys in a quick poll here:



The top version's less visible, end-on. It's got grain running the same direction lengthwise, but the surfaces of each piece are from different sides of the board (slipped, then turned over one side). Example picture (not my body blank) of a body can be found here

The other method (lower version)is what I'd do for neck blanks for stability: joined faces from the same edge, grain direction (lengthwise) does go in opposite directions, surfaces are from one face of the board per side, but the join's very visible end-on. Any thoughts on what's best, and/or what's most common? These are gonna be clear finished, so it's all staying visible.Mattia Valente38488.4927777778

FWIW, I do it the way you have it in the lower picture. I think it looks ok. I have even occassionally put a veneer strip down the center, then put a drop top cap on it to hide the seam on the top of the guitar. I think that is a nice look, especially when the seam in the grain is very noticable.

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Chop it up for fire wood...just kidding. I definitely would go with the lower one. A drop top is nice choice. Also remember alot of that middle seam is going to be hidden by your pick guard or if no pick guard then by pickups/bridge so I wouldn't worry about it. I used to build a lot of electrics and always tried to find one piece specimens to avoid all that. I don't know if one piece bodies are even available anymore. What does the ZOOTMAN SAY?

_________________
Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

Lower one it is, then! Thanks guys!

Either one will look good with this particular chunk 'o' wood, and shouldn't be very visible from the front at all. My local wood place (and the ones on the net, too) couldn't deliver Swamp Ash in one-piece body sizes (well, there was one board, but it was kinda warped). Mahogany, both honduran (bit harder) and african (khaya, sipo, sapele, easily), alder, walnut, I can find in one-piece body sized chunks. Which reminds me, I should probably go wood shopping again soonish...still need electric body blanks and neck stock!

I'm not drop topping these, since I like the simple ash look on a strat and/or tele. I have enough figured maple carved tops (and 4 more sets to build with), and I'm doing this quickly, and on a budget. One might say true to the original designer's ideals

I might slip a piece of Wenge down the middle, since I've got some thin stock, but I'm not sure about the aesthetic with the pickguard and all that. Interesting idea, though, thanks! I'll play around with it some after I rough-cut the chunks.

Quick question that I've never quite got a good answer for: why is the top called a "drop" top?
I'm doing one now, and am not sure of the nomenclature.
Seems like I should be....

Thanks,
Doofus

_________________
From Nacogdoches...the oldest town in Texas.

http://www.stephenkinnaird.com

dunno.....

Typically the "drop tops" are pretty thin and flat though... that is generally the way I use the word...

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Lower pic will look fine. As for one piece wood I occasionally come across some. Hi thick do the gave to be?

_________________
Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
http://www.rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store
The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498

1.75" (s4s) blanks for tele's and strats. A little less if you are going to drop top them.

Brock Poling38488.6312037037

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

Bob...1 & 3/4" actual, S2S, for Strat/Tele-type.

Carlton

Steve: I was under the general impression 'drop top' is usually used for strats with thin (1/4") tops that are dropped onto the top and over the forearm contour, more so than merely a thin top. The 'drop' would, in this case, come from that pesky countour thingy that would need bending. But maybe I'm just making it all up.

Bob: 1.75" thick is Fender standard. What you get after surfacing an 8/4 board, basically.

hmmm... interesting. How would you make a 1/4 board bend to that contour? Or, are you saying that you carve the arm rest after the drop top is applied?

_________________
Brock Poling
Columbus, Ohio
http://www.polingguitars.com

[QUOTE=Brock Poling]

hmmm... interesting. How would you make a 1/4 board bend to that contour? Or, are you saying that you carve the arm rest after the drop top is applied?

[/QUOTE]

No no, carve, then bend the top over the rest. Gives you an even line all the way around. I've never actually done it myself, mind you (practically all my scratch-built instruments have had some sort of top carve, but no thin drop tops), but Tom Anderson and John Suhr's strats do it that way. From what I've read, most people score the top where it has to bend, basically cutting one or more kerfs into it, and then bend it on. Clothes iron could work decently in this context. After all, it's mostly a bit of a kink that you can sand smooth afterwards. I believe there are a few tutorials on projectguitar.com's forums on the subject..

Update: I've cut and flipped the board into two body blanks (and probably enough left over for either a scrap project or three, or a neck-through).




I think they'll look pretty good.